Wednesday, October 16, 2013

TIPS FOR DUSK PHOTOGRAPHY

You can do better photos if you keep certain things in mind. Before the sun completely sets, the light will be not so harsh. It is the best time to take many photos. The Natural lighting it the best choice for photography. It talks the emotions more than a face or a expression or a location which can't talk. Here are some tips to take few fantastic shots.

Location

Select a location which gives you a wide view of the landscape. Make sure that the sun and the light rays are clearly visible along with the landscape. Reach the area before few hours of the set and make the corresponding setup. Just follow the rule of third and set the tripod accordingly.

Equipment

With my experience i'm saying that equipment is not a factor. Only the way you looking the nature is the matter. It can be done even with a good mobile camera. A digital camera can do more better. If you have a DSLR then keep in mind some things. If you have a wide angle lens better you carry it also along with you.

Aperture and Exposure setting

Reducing the aperture will bring about a respectable depth of field in your image. Try experimenting in the range of f/8 to f/20. The wider apertures will be useful for focusing on a foreground subject while blurring the multicolored hues of the sky in the background. Exposure is best tested with metering by half pressing the shutter button. If your camera has a bracketing feature, the use it, long exposures will get you the best light for background and foreground.

Friday, September 20, 2013

SILHOUETTE PHOTOGRAPHY EASY TIPS



I'm not a professional in taking these kind of photographs, even i don't bother what kind of photography is this, but if you look at my face-book page https://www.facebook.com/MyPhotographyPath you can see some silhouette photos. Because i'm very much interested in taking these kind of pictures. So I can give you some tips in taking these kind of photographs.

Dusk or Dawn

Take the picture when the sun is below the horizon in morning or evening. Make sure the sky is not so sunny. No matter the amount of clouds in the sky. The main thing is the background should be brighter than the subject.

Camera

Actually the camera is not a matter in taking these kind of photos. Even the above photo is captured using NIKON L110 only. Even a mobile camera can also do the same. If you own a DSLR then close down the aperture to get a burst effect photograph.

Subject

Mostly people can be the best subject. The trees and the buildings also be good but the shadow of a people can say a lot than what a facial expression or costumes or even location can't say. So the best thing is to try with the people.

Position of Subject

To get a better silhouette the subject should be in a higher place than the camera position. Mostly the hill stations are the best location to take such kind of photographs. It is not compulsory to keep such positions, but it is easy for you to take a good picture without much effort.

Actions 

It is better to make some limb actions to express a joy or something like that. As said above a shadow can make out a lot. Or otherwise use a child or children in such kind of photographs as subject. They will express a lot than the mature can do.

Editing

Just edit the photo a little to add more spices to your photograph. Just work a little on the curves and histogram to make the darker portion a little more darker and brighter portion a little more brighter. Also try to add some yellowish to your sky detail. It brings a chill effect to your photograph.

So any body with a normal camera or a mobile camera can try this silhouette photography.

                                                                                                                  Written by Tisho Grahary
                                                                                               https://www.facebook.com/tisho.grahary
                                                                                          Thanks to Vasanth Srijan who took this picture
                                                                                            https://www.facebook.com/vasanth.srijan

Thursday, September 12, 2013

CAMERA ANGLE

                                                    Early example of use of camera angle

Where the camera is placed in relation to the subject can affect the way the viewer perceives the subject. There are a number of camera angles, such as a high-angle shot, a low-angle shot, a bird's-eye view and a worm's-eye view. A Viewpoint is the apparent distance and angle from which the camera views and records the subject.
They also include the eye-level camera angle and the point of view shot. A high-angle shot (HA) is a shot in which the camera is physically higher than the subject and is looking down upon the subject. The high angle shot can make the subject look small or weak or vulnerable while a low-angle shot (LA) is taken from below the subject and has the power to make the subject look powerful or threatening. A neutral shot or eye-level (EL) shot has little to no psychological effect on the viewer. This shot is when the camera is level or looking straight on with the subject.
A point of view shot (POV) shows the viewer the image through the subject's eye. Some POV shots use hand-held cameras to create the illusion that the viewer is seeing through the subject's eyes.
Bird's eye shot or bird's-eye view shots are taken directly above the scene to establish the landscape and the actors relationship to it.
Worm's-eye view is a shot that is looking up from the ground, and is meant to give the viewer the feeling that they are looking up at the character from way below and it is meant to show the view that a child or a pet would have. When considering the camera angle one must remember that each shot is its own individual shot and the camera angle should be taken in context of the scene and film.
There are many different types of shots that can be used from these angles. There are extreme long shots which are extremely far away from the subject and might not even show a person at all.
Extreme long shots are usually done in a high angle so the viewer can look down upon a setting or scene. Extreme longs shots are used mainly to open the scene or narrative and show the viewer the setting. The rest of the shots are most typically done in an eye level or point of view shot although it is possible to do any shot with any angle. There is the long shot which shows the subject even though the setting still dominates the picture frame.
Then, there is the medium long shot which makes the subject and the setting have equal importance and has the two about 50/50 in the frame. Then is the medium shot which emphasizes the character and is about a knees to waist up type shot. Then the medium close up is a shot that has the waist to the chest and up. The next closest shot is the close up which has the shoulders and up or maybe a little tighter on the head.
Finally, there is the extreme close up shot which has one body part usually. This can be an eye, a hand or anything else. These shots can be used with any of the aforementioned camera angles.
A dutch angle, also called a canted angle or even simply the tilted angle, is an angle in which the camera itself is tilted to the left or the right. The unnatural angle gives the viewer a feeling that world is out of balance or psychological unrest.


Sunday, September 8, 2013

Photography Tips for Beginners


                 Digital photography has democratized the medium. More people are taking more photos than ever before, and they're sharing them online with friends and family in record numbers. It's easy to place the blame on the camera if your images aren't as nice as some others you see online, but by following a few guidelines you can improve the quality of your photos—without having to shell out big bucks for a new camera. Keep these 10 easy tips in mind next time you head out to capture the world around you. And if you have any tips that have helped you take better pictures, please share them in the comments section.
Get Basic Composition Down. The heart of a photograph is its composition—the position of different elements in a frame. The easiest rule of thumb to learn and remember is the Rule of Thirds. Basically, you'll want to break your frame into nine squares of roughly equal size. Try and align the subject of your photo along these lines and intersections and imagine the main image divided over these nine boxes. This gives you a more dramatic, visually interesting shot than one where you subject is located dead center. Many newer cameras have a rule of thirds grid overlay that you can activate when shooting.
Adjust Exposure Compensation. As long as you aren't shooting in full manual mode, your digital camera is making decisions that determine the exposure of a photo—in English, how light or dark the shot appears. Generally speaking, a camera looks at a scene and tries to determine the appropriate exposure based on the correct lighting of an 18-percent gray card, which is why there are special scene modes for snow—without them, the camera would try to make the white snow gray.
If a photo is too light or dark you can either delve through the dozens of scene modes that are available in modern point-and-shoot cameras, or simply dial in a bit of exposure compensation. Many cameras have a physical button for this, identified by a +/- symbol. If your photo is too dark, move the scale up above zero; if too light, move it down a bit.
Choose the Right Mode. Your camera is likely to have scores of shooting modes, ranging from fully automatic operation to very specific scene modes. If you're shooting fast action you can put the camera into Shutter Priority ("S") mode and increase the speed at which a photo is taken—setting it to 1/125 second or faster will help to freeze action. In lower light you can use Aperture Priority ("A") mode to make sure as much light is entering the lens as possible, or if you're shooting landscapes on a tripod you can close the lens's iris to increase depth of field, keeping everything in sharp focus from the foreground to the horizon. If you're a D-SLR shooter, you're more likely to use the A or S modes, while point-and-shoot cameras will often feature more specific modes that cater to activities like sports, low-light use, or landscape shooting.
Watch Your White Balance. Your camera will try and set white balance automatically based on the type of light in which's you're shooting. Different light casts different types of color—sunlight is very blue, tungsten lighting is yellow, and fluorescent is a bit green. In many cases, the camera will automatically detect what type of lighting you're under and adjust the color in photos so that they look natural. If you're shooting under mixed lighting, or if the camera is just having a hard time figuring things out, you can set the white balance manually. On most point and shoots you'll have to dive into the shooting menu to adjust this, but many D-SLRs have a dedicated White Balance button, often labeled "WB." You can correct color in iPhoto or Picasa later on, but you'll get better-looking photos if you get the white balance right in the first place.
Think About Lighting. Pay attention to how much light you have and where it's coming from when taking your photos. If you're shooting outdoors, be careful not to take photos of a person when the sun is at their back. If you're grabbing a photo in front of a monument or landmark and don't have the flexibility to adjust your position you can use the camera's flash to fill in shadows. You may have to manually activate the flash, as there's a good chance that the camera will think that it's unnecessary on a bright day.

Friday, September 6, 2013

DEVELOPMENT OF CHEMICAL PHOTOGRAPHY

Monochrome process



Around the year 1800, Thomas Wedgwood made the first known attempt to capture the image in a camera obscura by means of a light-sensitive substance. He used paper or white leather treated with silver nitrate. Although he succeeded in capturing the shadows of objects placed on the surface in direct sunlight, and even made shadow-copies of paintings on glass, it was reported in 1802 that "The images formed by means of a camera obscura have been found too faint to produce, in any moderate time, an effect upon the nitrate of silver." The shadow images eventually darkened all over because "no attempts that have been made to prevent the uncoloured part of the copy or profile from being acted upon by light have as yet been successful." Wedgwood may have prematurely abandoned these experiments because of his frail and failing health; he died aged 34 in 1805.The oldest surviving permanent photograph of the image formed in a camera was created in 1826 or 1827 by the French inventor Joseph Nicéphore Niépce. The photograph was produced on a polished pewter plate. The light-sensitive material was a thin coating of bitumen, a naturally occurring petroleum tar, which was dissolved in white petroleum, applied to the surface of the plate and allowed to set before use. After a very long exposure in the camera (traditionally said to be eight hours, but possibly several days), the bitumen was sufficiently hardened in proportion to its exposure to light that the unhardened part could be removed with a solvent, leaving a positive image with the light regions represented by hardened bitumen and the dark regions by bare pewter. To see the image plainly, the plate had to be lit and viewed in such a way that the bare metal appeared dark and the bitumen relatively light.
Niépce had previously experimented with paper coated with silver chloride. Unlike earlier experimenters with silver salts, he succeeded in photographing the images formed in a small camera, producing his first results in 1816, but like his predecessors he was unable to prevent the coating from darkening all over when exposed to light for viewing. As a result, he had become disenchanted with silver compounds and turned his attention to bitumen and other light-sensitive organic substances.
In partnership, Niépce (in Chalon-sur-Saône) and Louis Daguerre (in Paris) refined the bitumen process, substituting a more sensitive resin and a very different post-exposure treatment that yielded higher-quality and more easily viewed images. Exposure times in the camera, although somewhat reduced, were still measured in hours.
In 1833 Niépce died of a stroke, leaving his notes to Daguerre. More interested in silver-based processes than Niépce had been, Daguerre experimented with photographing camera images directly onto a silver-surfaced plate that had been fumed with iodine vapor, which reacted with the silver to form a coating of silver iodide. Exposure times were still impractically long. Then, by accident according to traditional accounts, Daguerre made the pivotal discovery that an invisibly faint latent image produced on such a plate by a much shorter exposure could be "developed" to full visibility by mercury fumes. This brought the required exposure time down to a few minutes under optimum conditions. A strong hot solution of common salt served to stabilize or fix the image by removing the remaining silver iodide. On 7 January 1839, Daguerre announced this first complete practical photographic process to the French Academy of Sciences, and the news quickly spread. At first, all details of the process were withheld and specimens were shown only to a trusted few, Arrangements were made for the French government to buy the rights in exchange for pensions for Niépce's son and Daguerre and then present it to the world (with the de facto exception of Great Britain) as a free gift. Complete instructions were published on 19 August 1839.
After reading early reports of Daguerre's invention, William Henry Fox Talbot, who had succeeded in creating stabilized photographic negatives on paper in 1835, worked on perfecting his own process. In early 1839 he acquired a key improvement, an effective fixer, from John Herschel, the astronomer, who had previously shown that hyposulfite of soda (commonly called "hypo" and now known formally as sodium thiosulfate) would dissolve silver salts. News of this solvent also reached Daguerre, who quietly substituted it for his less effective hot salt water treatment. Talbot's early silver chloride "sensitive paper" experiments required camera exposures of an hour or more. In 1840, Talbot invented the calotype process, which, like Daguerre's process, used the principle of chemical development of a faint or invisible "latent" image to reduce the exposure time to a few minutes. Paper with a coating of silver iodide was exposed in the camera and developed into a translucent negative image. Unlike a daguerreotype, which could only be copied by re-photographing it with a camera, a calotype negative could be used to make a large number of positive prints by simple contact printing. The calotype had yet another distinction compared to other early photographic processes, in that the finished product lacked fine clarity due to its translucent paper negative. This was seen as a positive attribute for portraits because it softened the appearance of the human face. Talbot patented this process, which greatly limited its adoption. He spent the rest of his life in lawsuits defending the patent until he gave up on photography. Later George Eastmanrefined Talbot's process, which is the basic technology used by chemical film cameras today. Hippolyte Bayard had also developed a method of photography but delayed announcing it, and so was not recognized as its inventor.
In 1839, John Herschel made the first glass negative, but his process was difficult to reproduce. Slovene Janez Puhar invented a process for making photographs on glass in 1841; it was recognized on June 17, 1852 in Paris by the Académie Nationale Agricole, Manufacturière et Commerciale. In 1847, Nicephore Niépce's cousin, the chemist Niépce St. Victor, published his invention of a process for making glass plates with an albumenemulsion; the Langenheim brothers of Philadelphia and John Whipple and William Breed Jones of Boston also invented workable negative-on-glass processes in the mid-1840s.



Wednesday, September 4, 2013

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY


BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS

I have made literally many bird photographs over the last 1 year. No matter how many times I photograph birds, I still find myself learning new tidbits that I might take for granted but that may be helpful for you. So here goes.
Background, background, background. If you don’t have a clean background you don’t have a good bird photo. Pick your backgrounds before you decide where to shoot.
It’s nearly impossible to photograph song birds, some raptors and other birds without setting up a perch and drawing the birds in. You need four things to do this. A clean place for the bird to perch, cover, food and water.
If you decide to set up a perch make sure you use local vegetation – it both aids in drawing in the birds and it makes the photograph more believable. You won’t find many arctic terns nesting on a cactus. Darker colored perches are less troublesome exposure wise.
Bird feeders are the easiest way to attract birds but if you’re going to put out a feeder make sure you use quality feed, and that you feed consistently, otherwise the birds will get sick or grow to rely on the feed and perhaps not find sufficient nourishment if you stop feeding. Tray feeders located near a water source and good perches will keep you shooting all day.
Use the smallest tray feeder you can find. Otherwise too many birds will just stay on the feeder and not land on the perch.
Remember that birds tend to fly or hop from perch to cover while they eat. They typically like to land on the same perch over and over so just be patient. When the bird leaves the perch there’s a good chance it is coming right back.
Use a long lens. Something in the 400-600mm range will give you enough distance from the birds that you shouldn’t scare them.
Shoot from a blind. Inexpensive bag blinds or hunting blinds are ideal for concealing yourself from the birds. They will be much more likely to hit your perch if they can’t see you lurking nearby.
Allow plenty of distance between your perch and background. The further away the background is from the perch, the more pleasing the bokeh.
If you’re photographing water birds, find a way to shoot from ground level. Water birds never look right when you are shooting down on them.
These are just some random tips. I could give hundreds more. The bonus tip is just go out and try it. Photographing birds requires patience but can be fun and very rewarding.

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Steven Sasson - Digital Still Camera




Steven Sasson
Born Jul 4 1950Electronic Still CameraDigital Camera  Patent No. 4,131,919

Inducted 2011


In 1974, Kodak supervisor Gareth Lloyd asked electrical engineer Steve Sasson to investigate whether charge-coupled devices could be used to create an image sensor for a camera. After a year in the laboratory, Sasson created a device that captured an image, converted it to an electronic signal, digitized the signal, and stored the image—the first digital camera.
Invention Impact
An early adopter of digital imaging technology was the newspaper industry. In 1994, Kodak developed one of the first commercially-available digital cameras, the AP NC 2000, in cooperation with the Associated Press and Nikon. The first consumer digital camera to incorporate an LCD screen on the back was the Casio QV-10 in 1995, which retailed for around $650 and had 2MB of memory.
Today, consumers can choose from a wide array of cameras, from less than $100 to thousands of dollars. In 2008, 73% of Americans owned a digital camera and 34 million digital cameras were sold in the U.S., generating $7 billion in revenue. Virtually all of today’s digital cameras rely on the same structure that Sasson invented in 1975.
Inventor Bio
Raised in Brooklyn, Sasson attended Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, receiving his B.S. and M.S. He joined Kodak in 1973 and remains there today. Most recently, he works with Kodak’s Intellectual Property Transactions group.

Source: HALL OF FAME/inventor profile